November 16, 2009

The Great Wall of Mumbai

Yesterday was incredible!
Yesterday I drove by the Tulsi Pipe Road from Mahim to Lower Parel and was blown away by the graffiti art on what has now been dubbed the Great Wall of Mumbai. It has totally transformed the dirty, drab wall along the Western Railway line until it is one of the most interesting, vibrantly colourful pieces of public property I've seen in a very long time.

Can you believe this is in Mumbai?
Okay, with a stretch of your imagination maybe you can. And you can see the all-too familiar lines and geegaws that go with the railway tracks just on the other side of the wall.
But can you believe that this wildly, impossibly colourful stretch was actually sanctioned by the BMC, the tradition-bound, red-tape-shackled corporation that runs Mumbai city?
I love it!

The Wall Project is the initiative of a group of very talented and super-creative artists who go around transforming dull, boring walls into superb works of art . When the BMC offered this kilometres-long stretch of wall as a canvas, there was a flurry of activity, both online and on-site. Messages were posted, the grapevine buzzed and on the appointed days (first in August and again in October this year) all interested artists and assistants let their creative juices flow.
And what was once the receptacle of paan-juices and a surface for crudely printed handbills, is now the showcase of the creativity of the city's artistically inclined .

What fun! I wish I could've been there. Maybe if there is another call going out for artists ... And I'm sure there will be, there're plenty of unpainted sections left in that wall still.

There are still portions of the wall , especially near Mahim, where it provides shelter to pavement-dwellers. I saw this family busy preparing their dinner and couldn't help thinking that they're living in the shadow of some artist's concern and love for this city.

This little boy was sitting near the women and as soon as he saw that we had stopped to click photos, he ran up with the widest smile on his face. He was thrilled to see that I had clicked his photo and immediately asked me to click one of his family too.
Do you see his dinner cooking in the background?

Further down the road, Michael Jackson was one of the recurring themes on the wall. I think a lot of fans poured out their grief in paint here.

As if Mumbai could ever do without its film stars! They were all here, larger than life . And there were so many more that I enjoyed.
Some I couldn't get a good shot of because it was too dark, and long stretches were blocked by the vehicles parked in front of them. Even more were a blur because I had a lot of cars impatiently honking from behind and telling me to "move, or else...!".
But, take a look at some of the others that I did get...




But the one that said it all had to be this one!


33 comments:

  1. Oh yes.. I've seen this forming on another blog.. its awesome.. isnt it???

    Such a bundle of talent..

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  2. How Wonderful! I've often thought that this is the better way to go...part of me is a little hopeful that it will stay clear of handbills....Thanks for sharing Sunita!

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  3. Patricia, awesome doesn't even begin to cover it! You just have to see it to realise how thrilling it is. This particular stretch was filled with slums and encroachers and travelling down this road usually meant you had your eyes averted to avoid looking at the squalor. And now...! This is just so brilliant!

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  4. Hi Lisa!
    Actually a couple of film posters did deface some of the paintings recently but there was such a huge public outcry against it and people going online to declare they definitely wouldn't go to see that movie because of what they had done that there was a quick apology from the director and film stars. They even said they'd make sure all the posters were removed and the paintings restored. I dont know whether they did actually do it but I didnt see any more film posters on the wall. There were a couple of handbills advertising call centre jobs and English fluency courses, though.
    I wish more thought was given to the aesthetics of cityscaping. This is definitely a start and I'm thrilled by the possibilities.

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  5. Wow, how lovely. This stuff deserves to be graced with a better word than graffiti, which so often is so ugly and defacing. I remember seeing something similar in Madras,on the road to the airport. Some sort of pictorial depiction of Tamil heritage, which, while quite gaudy in bits, was overall very cheery and colorful. I hope the Mumbai walls are looked after with the pride and care they deserve.

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  6. How wonderful and lovely.thanks sunita for showing me this mumbai...thanks dear.

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  7. You're right, Kamini, maybe I should've called it a mural instead of graffiti.
    That's interesting that Madras has some wall art too. Maybe I'll do a search for it online... unless you have some photos posted on your blog? Gaudy or not, I'm sure people would rather look at that than some political poster or paan-stains on the walls.
    Mumbai-wallahs are actually very proud of this wall (see my comment above). Especially the blogging community. Its really heartening to see everyone come together to protect it.

    Hi Lakshmi! I wish you could see it yourself. I must go back during the daytime and walk this stretch. At night many of the interesting ones are hidden to view. I saw a great one with a dotted line and the words "cut here to let the sunshine in". I loved it but couldnt photograph it because it was in the shadows.
    Do try to go and see this wall if you travel via Mumbai.

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  8. Sunita: Here's a link to an article that talks about The Great Wall of Madras. The headline made me chuckle: Anna and Kamaraj Salais to Boast of Graffiti!!
    http://www.expressbuzz.com/edition/story.aspx?Title=Anna+Salai,+Kamarajar+Salai+to+boast+of+graffiti&artid=OELDgGvQeN8=&SectionID=lifojHIWDUU=&MainSectionID=lifojHIWDUU=&SectionName=rSY|6QYp3kQ=&SEO=J%20P%20Krishna,%20M%20Subramanian,%20YMCA,%20M%20Subramanian,%20A

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  9. Thanks for letting us see .. it is really incredible that those 'rut bound govt officers' could do this and very cheering to see all this creativity.
    Bhubaneswar is another place that has incredible tribal art on all its corporation walls.
    I must tell you that i do enjoy your cheery writing

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  10. Thanks, Kamini. Yes, definitely a change for the better, isn't it? I just hope it escapes the poster-pasters. I can just imagine how their hands must be itching at the sight of such a long stretch of wall :)

    Kallu, that must be really interesting. I must confess that I wondered what the Warli tribals would've made of this wall. After all, they specialise in wall-art.
    And yes, it is cheering to see that the world of babu-dom is changing.
    Thanks, it's always very encouraging when readers stop by to say that they enjoyed a particular post :)

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  11. Absolutely, Raji! It has to be seen to be truly appreciated, I think. Especially when one has an idea of how it looked before the transformation.

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  12. Hi Nicole! Yes, it is, isn't it! I love it.

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  13. Extraordinarily beautiful! This reminds me of the work of my friend Prashant Miranda, An Indo-Canadian Artist ( NID grad) based in Toronto in summer and all over India in the winter. You might like his blog at prashart.blogspot.com

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  14. First time commenting here.
    Its brilliant! and cant help but say 'what an idea sirji!!':)

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  15. Barry, I knew you would like this!
    And thank you so much for introducing me to Prashant's blog. I love his work. It really sings to me!

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  16. Hi Priya! Brilliant is the perfect word for it, isn't it? I think the person responsible for this should get some kind of award! Maybe "Idea of the Decade" will do for starters.

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  17. what an idea..brilliant and colorful..so mumbai in its flavour

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  18. Wonderful idea,sirji ! Instead of defacing the walls with cinema posters and political eye sores, this is so much more colourful, expressive and cheerful. From last month, Bangalore has also been getting a similar make over. Folk art motifs,paintings depicting heritage sights, scientific achievements and literary passages are blossoming on walls abutting arterial roads. Only hope they are all maintained in good condition later!

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  19. Lakshmi, I especially loved the fact that all that colour was minus the red paan-stains that 'decorate' walls all over Mumbai.

    Yosee, that's interesting to see a great idea catching on everywhere. I just hope the political parties dont see this as the next great medium for self-propaganda. Imagine being forced to stare at some politico's face and reading his 'achievements' for kilometre after boring kilometre!

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  20. Love the wall - what brilliant graffiti, what a great idea in concept and execution. Had a chuckle at the "Mmmbai" one... and had to explain the pun to my husband :)

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  21. The "Mmmbai" one was cheeky (pun unintended), wasn't it? I loved it!

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  22. Sunita! Hope all is well. I just wanted to say - I miss your lovely posts!! Hope you'll be back soon!

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  23. Just a case of slipped disc tripping up my bloggng schedule, Kamini. Sorry about that. I hope to be up and bloogging again very soon.

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  24. Oh, that sounds painful. I hope you are feeling better.

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  25. Came across your blog at Colours Decor. Interesting graffiti art, and glad to see it beauitfy mumbai. Hope this trend catches on and spreads to other cities too. I am sure India has sooo many walls filled with stains, posters and film ads that can do with a touch of art like this.

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  26. Yes, much better, Kamini.

    Hi Iniyaal. I hope so too. I'd much rather look at graffiti art than paan stains anyday.Some of those panels are so witty that they really bring a smile to brighten up an otherwise grimy, busy day.

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  27. Sunita: Now I some photos and stuff on the walls of Madras on my blog!

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  28. Great! Kamini, I'm off to check out your blog right now. Thanks for letting me know :)

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  29. It is 2012, and I am reading this now - are the murals on this wall still there?
    While growing surprised with the burgeoning street art scene in Delhi - I chanced upon your post. Here's mine on Delhi - http://senseofaplace.blogspot.in/2012/05/masked-buddha-and-street-art-of-delhi.html

    Cheers!

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  30. Hi D! Some of the murals are still there, some aren't (posters and the weather both equally to blame here) and new ones have come up in some places. It's so interesting! I look for all kinds of excuses just to drive by this road :)
    I wish you could see it for yourself.
    I stopped by your blog today, D, and loved it! But a cranky internet connection stopped me from exploring it further. I'll be back, though.

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  31. sunita, the walls that line the Tidel Park road in Tiruvanmiyur, Chennai have some wall art too. my friend Asma Menon was involved in that project. and in my current city, the expressway tunnel is being done up beautifully by a French-Tunisian graffiti artist.. sure to liven up a tedious commute...
    its lovely to see inclusive art in public places and it creates a sense of vibrancy .. Mumbai's back streets could do with some color and joy ... and yes, sure does help in keeping the place clean... hopefully people will think twice before spitting on the Big B's image or Jacko.. one can always hope....

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